Roof Leaking During Rain: Emergency Response, Finding Leaks & Permanent Solutions
Why Does My Roof Only Leak When It Rains?
Your roof sits there all winter. No leaks.
Then a heavy rainstorm rolls through and water starts dripping from your ceiling. If this sounds familiar, you've got what roofers call a rain-activated leak. Rain creates water entry conditions that other moisture sources just can't replicate.
Understanding Rain-Specific Leak Mechanics
Rain behaves differently than snow melt or condensation. Heavy rain delivers massive water volume fast. Were talking 100+ liters per hour on an average Ontario roof. That kind of volume will find every weakness in your roofing system.
Wind makes things worse by driving rain horizontally into areas that normally stay protected. Prolonged rain saturates your shingles, flashing, and underlayment until water starts pooling in valleys and low spots. Sometimes capillary action pulls water under shingles through gaps you can't even see.
Rain Leaks vs. Other Moisture Problems
Rain leaks: Activate during or right after rain, worsen with heavy downpours, directly tied to precipitation
Snow melt leaks: Show up during spring thaw or warm spells, often from ice dam damage
Condensation: Appears during cold weather with widespread distribution, no connection to rain
Plumbing leaks: Constant or activity-based like when you shower, zero weather correlation
Small roof defects don't always leak during light rain because the water volume stays manageable. But during a heavy storm, water overwhelms your roofs normal drainage and finds every single weakness. That's why homeowners tell us "it only leaks during really heavy storms."
Ontario's Rain Patterns
Ontario gets hit with specific weather patterns that stress roofs hard. Spring storms from April through June bring heavy thunderstorms with intense rainfall rates. Summer delivers severe thunderstorms with wind-driven rain that tests every seal and flashing point.
Fall systems between October and November dump multi-day soaking rains that saturate everything. And thanks to the Great Lakes, we get lake-effect precipitation where southwest winds drive rain horizontally across your roof.
That wind-driven rain from the Great Lakes creates a unique challenge. Water doesn't just fall straight down. It gets pushed sideways into roof features that normally never see direct water exposure. Ontarios freeze-thaw cycles compound this problem by creating small cracks and gaps that heavy rain exploits.
Emergency Steps During Active Leak
Water dripping from your ceiling right now? Fast action makes the difference between minor repairs and major damage. Here's what to do in the first critical minutes.
Contain Water Damage (First 5 Minutes)
Grab every bucket and container you can find. Place them under all drip points. Move furniture, electronics and valuables away from the leak area fast.
Use towels and tarps to protect flooring and furniture that can't be moved. If your ceiling starts bulging with water, you need to make a small controlled hole to drain it. Sounds scary but a bulging ceiling can collapse without warning.
Document Everything (Minutes 5-15)
Pull out your phone and start taking photos. You need pictures of all drip points, water damage, and affected areas. Video the active leak too because it shows severity in a way photos can't capture.
Write down when the leak started, how hard its raining, and which direction the wind is blowing. Photograph any damaged belongings, flooring, walls and ceiling. Save every receipt for emergency supplies like tarps, buckets and dehumidifiers. Your insurance company will want all of this.
Call Emergency Roofing Service (Minutes 10-20)
Don't wait for the rain to stop. Call a 24/7 emergency roofing service right now while water is still coming in. Explain your active leak situation, request emergency tarping if they offer it, and get an ETA plus cost estimate.
Emergency Roofing Response in Ontario
Services available: Emergency tarping, leak containment, temporary patching
Response time: 2-6 hours in urban areas, up to 24 hours in rural regions during major storms
Cost: $500-$2,000 including emergency surcharge
Benefit: Prevents thousands in additional water damage
Call Your Insurance Company (Within 24 Hours)
Call your insurance company within 24-48 hours of discovering the leak. Explain the roof leak and resulting damage, send them your photos and videos, and get your claim number plus adjuster contact info.
Ask about emergency repair coverage and limits. You have a duty to prevent further damage so don't wait for their approval to stop the leak. Just document everything you do.
Begin Drying Process (Hours 1-24)
Mold starts growing within 24-48 hours so get ahead of it now. Use a shop-vac, towels, and mops to remove standing water. Set up fans and open windows if the weather allows to increase ventilation.
Run dehumidifiers in affected rooms to pull moisture from the air. Remove soaked insulation, carpets and padding if you can access them safely. Don't cover wet areas with plastic because you'll trap moisture and make things worse.
Monitor for Leak Changes
While you're waiting for emergency service, check the leak every 30-60 minutes. Empty buckets before they overflow. Note if the leak gets worse because that may indicate the damage is spreading.
Watch for new leak points appearing in your ceiling or walls. Listen for the sound of water running inside your walls. All of this information helps your roofer diagnose the problem faster.
What NOT to Do During Active Leak
Do not go on your roof during a storm. Its extremely dangerous with slippery surfaces, lightning and wind. Do not ignore electrical hazards because water near electricity can kill you.
Don't wait until the rain stops to call for help. Emergency services exist for active leaks and damage continues every minute. Do not attempt DIY roof repairs during a storm because its dangerous and often makes leaks worse. And don't delay your insurance call because late reporting can mess up your claim.
How to Find Rain-Activated Leaks
Here's the frustrating part. The water dripping from your ceiling is rarely coming from the spot directly above it. Water gets into your roof, then travels along rafters, sheathing and through insulation before it finally drips into your living space.
Why Rain Leaks Are Hard to Locate
The actual roof entry point can be 5-20 feet upslope from where you're seeing the interior drip. Think about it. Water hits your roof, finds a weakness, then follows the path of least resistance down your roof sheathing, along rafters or trusses, through insulation horizontally, along pipes or wires, until it finds a gap in your ceiling.
Sometimes water enters at multiple locations, combines in your attic, and emerges as a single drip point. That one leak in your bedroom could be fed by three different roof failures.
Investigation Methods
Method 1: Attic Inspection During Rain (Most Effective)
The best time to check your attic is during active rain or right after. Make sure your attic is safe to enter first and watch for wet structural members that could be slippery. Grab a bright flashlight and look for active dripping, wet spots, and water trails.
Find the area above your interior drip point, then trace the water trail upslope toward where its actually entering. Check common failure points near your chimney, vents, valleys and roof edges. When you find the entry point, mark it with chalk or spray paint so you can find it again.
Method 2: Exterior Inspection from Ground
After the rain stops and its safe, grab a pair of binoculars. Figure out which room is leaking and which part of the ceiling, then work backwards to determine which roof section sits above that spot.
Use your binoculars to inspect that area for obvious damage. Check chimneys, vents, valleys and flashing near the leak location. Look for debris like leaves or branches that might be diverting water into weak spots.
Method 3: Water Testing (Professional Method)
This one requires a professional roofer and gets done after the rain stops. Your roofer uses a garden hose to simulate rain, starting at the suspected area and working upslope. A helper stays inside watching for leaks. This method isolates the exact entry point. Cost runs $200-$400 for water testing service in Ontario.
Common Rain Leak Locations
Chimney flashing causes 40% of all rain leaks. The flashing separates from the chimney or roof, caulking breaks down, and metal rusts through over time. If you see water near or around your chimney inside, that's your first suspect. Proper reflashing runs $600-$2,000.
Roof valleys account for another 20% of leaks. These concentrate massive water flow and take a beating. Flashing fails, debris clogs the channel, and suddenly water finds its way in. Leaks show up in rooms where two roof slopes meet above. Re-valleying with debris removal costs $500-$1,500.
Plumbing vent boots cause 15% of rain leaks. Those rubber boots crack after 15-20 years and the seals give out. Watch for leaks near bathroom or kitchen ceilings. Replacing each boot runs $200-$500.
Skylights create problems in 10% of cases when flashing separates or gaskets deteriorate. Sometimes the installation was wrong from day one. Water appears around skylight edges. Reflashing or resealing costs $400-$1,200.
Damaged or missing shingles also cause 10% of leaks from wind damage, aging, or branches falling during storms. These leak during heavy rain and you might spot exposed roof deck from the ground. Shingle replacement runs $300-$800.
Step flashing at walls accounts for the remaining 5%. Where your roof meets vertical walls like dormers, Ontario's freeze-thaw cycles destroy the flashing. Leaks appear along interior walls near the roof line. Replacement costs $800-$2,000.
Wind Direction Clues
Many leaks only activate when wind blows from a specific direction. Southwest wind and rain means you should check south and west roof slopes. North wind and rain points to problems on your north slope and north-facing features. No wind with vertical rain sends water naturally to valleys, chimneys and vents.
In Ontarios southwestern regions, prevailing winds from the southwest make west and south slopes most vulnerable to wind-driven rain leaks.
Common Causes of Rain Leaks
When you know what typically fails, you can target your investigation and repair faster.
1. Flashing Failures (Most Common)
Flashing is the metal that seals transitions and joints in your roof. Its also the most common failure point. Chimney flashing fails when counter-flashing separates from the chimney, step flashing rusts out, or caulking gives up. Valley flashing deteriorates over time with seams separating and debris causing water overflow.
Wall flashing pulls away from dormers and vertical walls, especially after ice damage. Drip edge rusts through, separates from your fascia, and let's water sneak under shingles.
Ontario's freeze-thaw cycles destroy sealants fast. Temperature extremes cause expansion and contraction that tears flashing apart. Most flashing lasts 25-40 years before it needs replacement.
2. Compromised Shingle Seals
Sometimes your shingles look fine but water still gets through. Wind breaks sealant bonds causing shingle edges to lift and allowing water to drive underneath. Aging shingles lose flexibility, edges start curling, and gaps form where water finds its way in.
Installation errors like improper nailing or inadequate sealant create weak points. Cold-weather installations often fail because shingles don't seal properly. Sometimes capillary action pulls water through gaps between shingles that you can't even see with your naked eye.
3. Roof Penetration Issues
Every hole in your roof is a potential leak point. Plumbing vents use rubber boots that crack after 15-20 years and metal collars that rust through. Bath and kitchen vents develop rusted caps, birds build nests in them, or they're just flashed wrong from the start.
Skylights fail when gaskets wear out or flashing separates. Sometimes what looks like a skylight leak is actually condensation but it shows up the same way. Satellite dishes create mounting holes that compromise your roof if not sealed properly.
4. Ice Dam Damage
Ice dams damage your roof edges all winter long. The interesting thing is that damage might not leak during winter because the water stays frozen. But come spring and summer when rain hits those winter-created gaps, water pours right through.
Look for leaks at roof edges near exterior walls. If you've got a history of ice dams or just survived a harsh Ontario winter, ice dam damage could be your culprit.
5. Debris Dams and Water Pooling
Leaves pile up in valleys or behind chimneys creating a dam that holds water against your roof. Eventually that pooling water finds a weakness and starts leaking through. This happens most often after fall when leaves drop or after storms that knock branches onto your roof.
6. Inadequate Underlayment or Damaged Roof Deck
Sometimes your visible shingles look perfectly fine but you still get leaks. That's usually because the underlayment (tar paper) underneath has deteriorated or your roof deck (plywood or OSB) has cracked or rotted. Water bypasses your shingles entirely through damage sites created years ago.
7. Low-Slope or Flat Roof Issues
Low-slope and flat roofs face unique challenges. Water pools instead of shedding quickly. Seams and transitions become more vulnerable because water sits on them longer. These roofs need different installation methods than steep slopes but don't always get them.
Wind-Driven Rain: Ontario's Challenge
Wind-driven rain creates bigger problems in Ontario than most places because of lake-effect weather systems. This type of rain penetrates areas that vertical rain never touches.
How Wind-Driven Rain Works
Strong winds push rain horizontally instead of letting it fall straight down. Water gets driven up under shingle edges, pushed into vertical surfaces like walls and chimneys, and forced through gaps that normally shed water just fine. Flashing designed for vertical rain gets overwhelmed fast.
Winds above 50 km/h really amp up wind-driven rain impact. Ontario commonly hits this threshold during storms thanks to the Great Lakes.
Vulnerable Areas in Wind-Driven Rain
Gable ends take a beating because rake edges (the side edges of your sloped roof) sit exposed to horizontal water intrusion. Fix this with proper rake edge flashing and sealed shingle edges.
Dormer walls project from your roof creating a target for wind-driven rain. Water gets forced right into the wall-roof transition. You need proper step flashing and kickout flashing at the bottom to redirect water away.
Soffits and fascia get hit from below. Wind drives rain upward into soffit vents or behind your fascia boards. Make sure you have properly installed drip edge and sealed soffit penetrations.
South and west roof slopes face the worst of it in southwestern Ontario where prevailing southwest winds hammer these exposures relentlessly. Pay extra attention to shingle sealing and flashing integrity on these slopes.
Identifying Wind-Driven Rain Leaks
Wind-driven rain leaks only show up during storms with wind. They don't leak during calm, vertical rain. Often the wind needs to blow from a specific direction to activate the leak and the leak location lines up with that wind direction.
If you suspect wind-driven rain, write down the wind direction every time you get a leak. When a pattern emerges (like only leaking with southwest wind), you've identified your cause.
Solutions for Wind-Driven Rain
Ice and water shield installed on vulnerable slopes provides self-sealing underlayment that prevents water intrusion. Enhanced flashing with taller profiles and better sealed edges stops horizontal water. Hand-seal any lifted shingle edges and use high-wind rated shingles on exposed slopes. Gable ends need rake edge starter strips with properly sealed edges.
Temporary Repair Options
Temporary fixes buy you time until permanent repair is possible. Just never rely on these long-term.
Emergency Tarping (Professional Service)
Emergency tarping means a heavy-duty tarp secured over your leaking area. Use it when you've got an active leak during a storm, can't get immediate repairs, and need to prevent more damage fast.
Professional installation matters because they know how to set proper anchor points that won't cause additional damage. The tarp extends beyond the leak area and gets secured under shingles. Its weighted or nailed correctly for wind resistance.
Cost runs $500-$2,000 including emergency surcharge based on 2025 Ontario rates. A tarp stays effective for days to weeks but not months so schedule permanent repair as soon as possible.
Interior Containment (DIY)
If your leak isn't severe enough for emergency service, you can handle containment yourself. Set up buckets for water collection. Throw down towels and tarps to protect your belongings. Run dehumidifiers to control moisture and set up fans to increase drying.
This buys you hours to days but you need to schedule a professional assessment within 48 hours.
Temporary Patching (Professional)
When your roof becomes accessible between storms, a roofer can apply temporary patches. Roof cement seals obvious gaps for $150-$400. Quick shingle replacement patches cost $300-$600. Temporary flashing caulking runs $200-$500.
These patches buy you 1-6 months. They're not permanent solutions. You still need to schedule proper repair.
When Temporary Fixes Make Sense
Good reasons for temporary repair:
- Leak discovered in winter when permanent repair requires warm weather
- Need time to budget for extensive repair
- Waiting for insurance adjuster assessment
- Scheduling permanent repair but leak is happening right now
Bad reasons for temporary repair:
- Hoping to avoid permanent repair (the leak will just get worse)
- Trying to sell your home without disclosure
- Assuming a temporary fix is "good enough"
Permanent Repair Solutions
Permanent repairs fix the root cause instead of just treating symptoms. Done right, they prevent the leak from coming back and stop additional damage.
Flashing Repairs and Replacement
Chimney Reflashing:
Your roofer removes all the old flashing completely. They install new step flashing integrated with your shingles, then add counter-flashing embedded in the mortar joints. Everything gets sealed with proper sealants (not just cheap caulking). Cost runs $600-$2,000 depending on chimney size.
Valley Reflashing:
The crew removes shingles along your valley and installs new metal valley flashing or woven shingles. Ice and water shield goes under the flashing, then shingles get reinstalled properly. Expect $500-$1,500 per valley.
Wall Flashing Replacement:
Proper step flashing gets installed at wall-roof transitions. Kickout flashing goes at the bottom to direct water away. Everything integrates with your wall siding or cladding. Cost is $800-$2,000 per wall section.
Shingle Repair and Replacement
Localized Shingle Replacement:
Your roofer removes damaged shingles in the affected area. They inspect and replace damaged underlayment if needed, then install new shingles that match your existing ones. All edges get sealed properly. For a small area (5-15 shingles), expect $300-$800.
Roof Section Replacement:
When damage spreads across one area, replacing the entire slope or section makes more sense. This includes new underlayment. Cost runs $2,000-$5,000 depending on the size.
Penetration Repairs
Vent Boot Replacement:
The old deteriorated boot gets removed completely. A new all-weather boot (often lead composite or EPDM rubber) gets installed and properly flashed with shingles. Cost is $200-$500 per vent.
Skylight Reflashing:
Your roofer temporarily removes the curb-mounted skylight, installs a proper flashing kit, then reinstalls the skylight with new gaskets and seals. Runs $400-$1,200.
Comprehensive Solutions for Chronic Leaks
When you need multiple repairs or your roof is nearing the end of its life, replacement starts making more sense than endless patches.
Full Roof Replacement:
A complete tearoff down to the deck let's your roofer inspect and repair any deck damage. New underlayment goes down (synthetic if your budget allows). Ice and water shield gets installed at vulnerable areas. New shingles go on with proper installation and all flashing gets replaced with new materials.
Cost for a typical Ontario home runs $10,000-$20,000 in 2025 based on current market rates. You get a 10-year workmanship warranty plus the manufacturer warranty.
Repair Costs in Ontario
Rain leak repair costs swing wildly based on where the leak is and how bad the damage got.
Emergency Services
Emergency tarping with after-hours response runs $500-$2,000 including the emergency surcharge. Weekend and holiday service adds another $100-$200 on top. Storm season prices go up because demand spikes.
Diagnostic and Assessment
Basic leak inspection costs $200-$400 but most contractors waive this if you hire them for the repair. Water testing to pinpoint the exact leak source runs $200-$400. A comprehensive written assessment costs $300-$500.
Repair Costs by Source
Shingle Repairs
$300 - $800
Replace 5-15 damaged shingles, small area repair, includes labor and materials
Vent Boot Replacement
$200 - $500
Per vent, includes new boot, removal of shingles, reinstallation, sealing
Chimney Reflashing
$600 - $2,000
Complete reflash with step flashing and counter-flashing, varies by chimney size
Valley Repair
$500 - $1,500
Reflash one valley, includes shingle removal and replacement along valley
Skylight Reflashing
$400 - $1,200
Remove and reinstall skylight with proper flashing kit
Wall Flashing Replacement
$800 - $2,000
Step flashing at dormer or wall transition, 10-20 linear feet
Section Replacement
$2,000 - $5,000
Replace one roof slope or major section with extensive damage
Full Roof Replacement
$10,000 - $20,000
Complete tearoff and reroof for average Ontario home (2025 rates)
Additional Costs
Roof deck repair if rotted from prolonged leaks costs $500-$2,000. Water-damaged attic insulation replacement runs $1,000-$3,000. Interior ceiling repair including drywall and painting goes for $400-$1,500. If mold grew from the leak, remediation adds $1,000-$4,000.
Insurance Coverage
Insurance typically covers sudden damage from an identifiable storm, wind or hail damage to your roof, emergency repairs to prevent further damage, and interior damage from a covered roof failure.
What insurance usually won't cover: gradual leaks from poor maintenance, age-related deterioration, damage from neglecting known problems, and cosmetic repairs.
Preventing Future Rain Leaks
Most rain leaks don't have to happen. Proper maintenance and proactive care stop them before they start.
Annual Roof Inspection
Get a professional inspection every fall for a comprehensive assessment of your roof condition. This catches potential failures before they turn into leaks. Cost runs $200-$400 and many contractors waive it if you hire them for repairs. The payoff is huge because you catch problems when repairs cost $300-$600 instead of $2,000-$5,000.
Do your own ground inspection twice yearly in spring (after winter damage) and fall (before winter hits). Use binoculars to check for missing or damaged shingles, deteriorated flashing, and debris accumulation.
Post-Storm Inspection
After any severe weather, walk around your house checking for damage. Look for shingles blown into your yard. Check gutters for shingle granules which indicate your roof is losing protection. Inspect flashing around chimneys and vents for separation or damage. If the storm was severe, schedule a professional inspection even if you don't see obvious problems.
Proactive Maintenance
Clean your gutters twice yearly in spring and fall. Repair any sagging or separated gutters right away. Make sure downspouts direct water away from your foundation.
Clear valleys of leaves and debris before they create water dams. Remove branches touching or hanging near your roof. Keep chimney areas clear of debris buildup.
Trim tree branches hanging over your roof to maintain 6-10 feet of clearance. Remove dead trees near your house before they drop branches onto your roof during storms.
Address Small Issues Immediately
Reseal or replace lifted shingles before wind tears them completely off. Recaulk cracked flashing before gaps widen into major leak points. Fix minor leaks when you discover them instead of waiting for a "really bad" leak. Replace aging rubber boots proactively at 15-20 years before they fail.
Upgrade Vulnerable Areas
Install ice and water shield along roof edges (first 3-6 feet), in all valleys, and around every penetration. This prevents water intrusion even if your shingles fail.
Upgrade failing flashing before it fails completely. Use quality materials like aluminum or copper instead of galvanized steel. Get professional installation with proper techniques.
Timing Repairs Appropriately
Summer from June through August offers ideal conditions with full contractor availability. Spring in May and fall in September bring good weather but contractors get busy. Late fall in October and November works if the weather stays mild and you might catch lower prices due to less demand. Winter is for emergencies only because cold affects shingle sealant and costs jump higher.
Don't wait for emergencies. Schedule non-emergency repairs during good weather because a summer repair at standard rates beats a winter emergency repair that costs 1.5 to 2 times as much.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why does my roof only leak when it rains hard?
Heavy rain delivers way more water volume than minor roof defects can handle. Light rain doesn't produce enough water to overwhelm the drainage through small gaps. But heavy rain saturates everything and finds every single weakness. This tells you that you have a minor to moderate roof failure that needs fixing before it gets worse.
Should I call a roofer during the storm or wait until it stops?
Call during the storm. Emergency roofing services exist specifically to provide tarping and leak containment during active weather. Waiting just let's damage get worse. Call immediately even if they can't arrive for several hours. Document everything while you're waiting and contain the water damage inside as much as possible.
Can I go on my roof during rain to fix the leak?
No. Extremely dangerous. Wet roofs are slippery, wind creates fall hazards, and you've got lightning risk during storms. People die from roof falls every single year. Even professionals avoid roofs during active rain. Wait for safe conditions or call emergency professionals who have proper equipment and insurance.
How do I find where rain is getting in?
Best method is checking your attic during rain to see the active leak and trace upslope to the entry point. If you can't access your attic or find the leak yourself, call a professional. Roofers use water testing with a garden hose to isolate the exact entry point. DIY attempts often miss the actual source because water travels 5-20 feet from where it enters to where it drips.
Will insurance cover rain leak damage?
It depends on the cause. Insurance usually covers sudden damage from an identifiable storm, wind or hail damage, and situations where you had no prior knowledge of the problem. They usually won't cover gradual leaks from poor maintenance, age-related failures, or damage you ignored.
Key factors that help your claim: report within 24-48 hours, document the storm timing, show your maintenance history, and emphasize the sudden appearance. Always file the claim and let your insurance company decide.
How much does it cost to fix a rain leak?
Costs vary wildly. Minor repairs for a few damaged shingles run $300-$800. Moderate repairs involving flashing or multiple issues cost $600-$2,000. Major repairs with extensive damage across multiple systems go for $2,000-$5,000+. Full roof replacement if your roof is near end of life runs $10,000-$20,000.
Get 3-4 quotes from licensed contractors. Watch out for extremely low quotes that might mean cut corners or extremely high quotes that could be overcharging.
My roof only leaks in one room—does that mean it's a small problem?
Not necessarily. The leak location inside your home doesn't correlate with damage extent on your roof. A single drip point can result from multiple entry points combining in your attic. On the flip side, a small roof failure can create major interior damage if its in a critical location above finished living space versus attic storage. All leaks need prompt professional assessment regardless of how they look inside.
Can I just caulk the leak myself?
Only as an emergency temporary measure. DIY caulking rarely works because its hard to identify the exact entry point, caulking from below doesn't reach the actual problem, and improper caulking can trap moisture and make damage worse. Temporary caulking might buy you hours or days but you still need professional permanent repair.
How long can I wait to fix a rain leak?
Fix it immediately because every delay makes damage worse. Mold begins within 24-48 hours. After 1 week your insulation gets damaged and wood saturation starts. Structural wood rot begins at 2 weeks. By 1 month you have significant damage with mold throughout and ceiling damage. At 3+ months you face structural failures and $10,000+ in repairs.
Call a roofer within 48 hours of discovering the leak. Even if the repair can't happen right away due to weather or scheduling, at least get an assessment and temporary containment.
What's the difference between a roof leak and attic condensation?
Roof leaks occur during or after rain, stay localized to the entry point, follow a water trail, and depend on weather. Condensation occurs during cold weather, shows widespread distribution, creates frost on rafters and nails, and has no correlation to rain.
Test it by checking your attic during moderate rain. If you see active dripping or specific wet areas appearing, its a leak. If you see widespread moisture or frost with no new wet spots during rain, its condensation. Sometimes you can have both issues at once.
Roof Leaking During Rain?
Don't let rain leaks destroy your home. Get professional repair from experienced Ontario roofing contractors.
Emergency tarping available. Free quotes for permanent repairs. Licensed and insured contractors.